Day 19: June 5

Inverness to Lairg

90 km / 950 m

Today we take in some spectacular scenery that will bring all your senses to life!  With stunning views over the Cromarty Firth we'll then cycle along the banks of the Durnoch Firth to Bonar Bridge and the Kyle of Sutherland.  From here we pass the leaping salmon at Shin Falls, riding through forest to our destination, Lairg.

It shouldn't have been a difficult day, but with strong winds (head, cross, and occasionally tail), tired legs, and the constant threat of rain it was a bit of a slow go for me.  Once again, though, lovely scenery.  Lots of water in our views today, and not just the stuff falling from the sky.

I did a little tour through a tourist shop on the way to dinner last night and thought I probably need to come home with some type of Campbell memorabilia.  This little cookie tin was perfect.

Apparently Walker's shortbread is superior to Campbell's but I'm not aware of any Walkers in my heritage.  As I browsed through the lists of clans and septs I found it amazing just how many surnames that I've known in my lifetime originate from Scotland.  BTW - Gillies is a sept of the Macpherson clan.  

We were staying at The Coo's Guesthouse last night.  Nice enough, but the bathrooms were very tiny.  Tiny shower, tiny sink (too small for hand laundry), no heated drying rack, and I had to sit sideways on the toilet.  Breakfast was great, though, and a few of us had to take this picture before we left.

  

A coo is a Highland cow - the oldest cattle breed in the world (apparently), appearing in the 6th century in the Outer Hebrides.  

The forecast today was similar to yesterday - high winds, cool temps, and a high likelihood of patchy rain.  The first few hours were supposed to be clear, and indeed they were.  We rode as a group for the first few miles, as the way can be tricky at times.  Once we were over the Kessock Bridge (which seems to separate the Beauly Firth (w) from the Moray Firth (e)) we were free to do our own thing.  Nice views along the Beauly Firth until we turned inland at about 10 miles.  But - we were headed directly into the wind.  Ugh!  I was feeling kind of spent.  BTW - given the forecast today I tucked my phone away right from the get-go.  I pulled out an older phone I have with me and used that for pictures today.  Probably a lesser quality, but I didn't want to risk the main phone getting wet.  

We turned the corner at about 12 miles to start heading north and the relief from the wind was immediate.  A little bit of snow in the distance, just to make me feel at home........

Nice house along the way........

We passed through the lovely community of Conon Bridge.

On our way to Dingwall (and tea break in the Tesco parking lot) we started to have views to Cromarty Firth.  

 

And a lovely bike path to follow for a while.

Until I came to a section that was flooded out and I had to backtrack a bit......  More views of Cromarty Firth before we headed inland once again.

By this time I must have stopped at least a dozen times to don full rain gear and then remove it a short time later.  I didn't want to wait too long after the drops started to fall and risk getting soaked.  So - when I felt a few drops I would stop and look around at the clouds and gauge wind direction.  Each time it seemed that we were totally socked in and an extended downpour was imminent.  Then - by the time I got dressed and on the road again I rarely went a mile before the skies cleared and I started to sweat.  So - stop and reverse the whole procedure until the drops returned.  Ugh!  Finally at about 30 miles and an uphill (heat generator!) starting, I didn't bother layering up.  The drizzle continued for a bit, but my body heat probably evaporated whatever was landing on me.  Then by the top of the hill, the drizzle had stopped.  So - good call on passing on the rain gear this time.  Of course, though, the wind was a constant all day.  I have to commend Scottish Power on their choice of location for a wind farm.

First view of Dornoch Firth.

The average car speed on this section of road was a bit more than I thought it needed to be.  Started me wondering about whether Jackie Stewart was Scottish.  Apparently he was, but he was from the Glasgow area.  

Found another box...........

Big descent into the village of Bonar Bridge where we had lunch at a cafe.  My timing was great; it was just starting to rain as I pulled in.  Many people had already had their lunch and had left.  Some were still there and were getting ready to leave.  As I enjoyed my soup and homemade bread, a bunch had just headed out when the skies opened and the winds howled.  Nearly horizontal wind right into their faces.  Oh no!  I thought about sitting there until the rain had ended for the day, but soon after I finished eating it cleared up once again and I was off.  Only about 11 miles to go.  I believe the bridge below is at Invershin, crossing the Kyle of Sutherland.   

Peter had recommended that we stop at Shin Falls.  I was undecided; weather dependent.  Well, it started to spit just as I arrived at the parking lot so I pulled in to take cover.  It let up enough to walk to the falls.

The skies opened again and I had a nice chat with a motorcyclist from the Netherlands who was monitoring the radar.  I waited maybe 10 or 15 minutes and then had clear sailing all the way in to Lairg.  Less than five minutes after I arrived at the hotel the rain came down again.  I must have had my horseshoes situated correctly all day, as I arrived dry at the end of the day.

  

Lairg:

Population:  900

Lairg is an attractive village located at the southern end of Loch Shin.  It is the location of the largest single-day sheep sale in Europe.  It is prospectively the site of the 15th largest impact crater on Earth, which dates from 1.2 billion years ago and is 40km across.  IV27, with Lairg as its postal town, is the largest postcode area in the UK, at 3,608 square km.  

Hotel:  Highland Hotel   www.highland-hotel.co.uk

Lairg Highland Hotel was established in April 1996, when proprietors Allan and Annette Hamilton – together with their then six-month-old son Allan –identified that Lairg village could benefit from a small informal inn. Originally a pub with rooms called The Nip Inn, we have grown our business over the last twenty years from five guest bedrooms with a small open plan dining area and bar, into a ten-bedroom hotel with bistro and two bars. As a family run establishment, we like to personally make sure our guests have the best experience possible during their stay with us.

Facilities we provide include clothes drying area, overnight bicycle storage for cyclists and rear parking for motorcycles. For those enjoying outdoor sporting pursuits, we have rod and gun storage as well as a freezer for fish.

Ride Stats:

92.6 km

952 m (3123 feet)

The Route: